Creative Review: The 1394 Aviator

Creative Review: The 1394 Aviator

Grounded in a five-decade-deep design archive, our collections seek to reimagine iconic Cutler and Gross glasses and sunglasses for the faces and lifestyles of a modern audience.

The Creative Review series takes a closer look at the latest collection. Written in conversation with our Creative Director Alessandro Marcer, it explores the thought and inspiration behind each design. The latest instalment examines the beloved 1394 frame, available as both an Optical and Sunglass.

The 1394 Aviator Optical in Classic Navy Blue

A frame that speaks for itself, the 1394 draws inspiration from standout eyewear of the 1970s—a time when expression in fashion was at a height. This era saw a breaking of class conventions in the UK, with the nouveau-riche taking their place amongst the upper echelons of society. Self-made entrepreneurs and entertainers wore clothing and eyewear that reflected their extravagant lifestyles and newfound status in British culture. Aviators and navigators were the go-to silhouette, designed to project boldness and confidence.

To understand what made the 70s so formative for eyewear, it helps to look back further. Eyewear was originally crafted with glass lenses to fit prescriptions, with limited sizes of up to 60mm wide—a design restriction that kept frames naturally slighter in stature. The 1940s onwards presented a turning point: the introduction of plastic lenses offered lightness, advanced prescription technology and the ability to expand lens size past the standard restrictions, with a typical lens reaching 75mm and beyond. Thus allowing more freedom with the frame design itself. 

"When I designed the 1394, I explored the archive and was enamoured by the 0927 and 0995. Those early-day Cutler and Gross styles were bold, distinctively 70s and completely unapologetic."

— Alessandro Marcer, Cutler and Gross Creative Director

The 1394 Aviator Sunglass in Brown Crystal

A real shift in styling followed, transitioning from the clean lines and neat silhouettes of the swinging 60s to the more daring trends that defined the 70s. Experimentation moved to the forefront of optical design where frames became statements of identity as much as tools of vision.

The 1394 was first presented in 2021 as our Creative Director's answer to a call for an oversized, retro silhouette. Drawing on the archive's original 0927 and 0995, the new frame presented a modern alternative to those acetate aviators: a larger 57mm eye size, a classic double brow bar and a square lens shape dropping just above the cheek. Architecture that is refined and a silhouette that is utmost balanced.

The 1394 Aviator Optical in Multigreen

"Archival eyewear laid the groundwork for the 1394, which marks a modern renaissance in our design and one of our most beloved styles to date."

— Alessandro Marcer, Cutler and Gross Creative Director

Since its debut, the 1394 has remained a collection cornerstone, continuously evolving through seasonal colour and material iterations. Whether its appeal stems from an appetite for nostalgic dressing or the distinctive play of new coloured acetate and lens tints, the 1394 continues to prove itself a standout, and  a continued favourite from the Cutler and Gross collections, and for good reason.

Shop The 1394 

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