When choosing the perfect frame, don’t follow the rules. Many factors such as your career, style aesthetic, personality, and the occasion, will influence what shape is to be worn. But as a guide, we have matched glasses to the five most common face shapes.
Frames should ultimately be fit for purpose. Comfort is essential when choosing a frame you will wear daily—you should forget you are wearing them. The bolder and more oversized the trends get, the more heavy and uncomfortable they will become on the bridge of the nose. A quality handmade frame will be considerate of this despite the design.
Heart shape faces suit most frame shapes, so try the new ’70s inspired rounds and octagonal shapes that are coming through this season.
The heart shape tends to be characterised by a narrow jaw line and a prominent chin. Frames should minimise the width of the upper portion of the face. Opt for curvaceous frame shapes that are positioned lower on the face.
Women with a heart-shaped face should select an ultra-feminine shape such as the new Mad Men-inspired acetate combination frame. This often-vintage style has acetate ‘eyebrows’ and metal lower rims, shielding the eyes from the sun while providing a retro feline appearance. For opticals, choose a model that angles outwards at the top, and avoid bright colours or large bold shapes.
Aviators are a timeless choice, adding an androgynous and understated edge. Avoid square and rectangular frames and consider getting them fitted with luxurious ‘oil slick’ mirrored lenses for a bit of drama.
If you’re fortunate enough to have an oval face with balanced proportions, experiment with avant-garde and trend-led shapes such as a bold octagonal frame, a thick-rimmed cats-eye or a slightly rounded model with a keyhole bridge such as our timeless 0734 frame (pictured below).
For opticals, avoid narrow shapes. Choose a style that sits centrally and is not wider than the broadest part of your face. A classic cats-eye, rectangular shape or Aristotle Onassis-inspired wraparound frame will work best.
There is no reason to stick to black this season, so consider a bold colour or print for impact. Select a shade that clashes with what you are wearing. It’s all about modern kitsch and flourobrights this season.
Those with a long face and high cheekbones can wear oversized square shapes—think Françoise Hardy. Try a perfect square with high temples in the softest cloud white.
Upswept and round shapes will also work on a longer face. This season Alberta Ferretti, in collaboration with Cutler and Gross, created elegant ’30s influenced round frames with soft sculptural sweeps. Or for a more graphic look, try a round shape in a rich, high-impact jewel shade.
When choosing optical frames for an elongated face, opt for models with depth rather than width and opt for colourful, contrasting or decorative temples.
Following the aesthetic set by architects Phillip Johnson and Nicholas Grimshaw, our model 0870—inspired by Le Corbusier, the pioneer of modern architecture—is an amazing fit regardless of face shape. Gentlemen leading the high life should select oversized and heavy tortoiseshell frames to compliment their grand aspirations.
Round faces look best in beautiful boxy, narrow rectangular, and geometric shapes (think ’80s vintage) that are more wide than deep. This will strike a balance with rounder facial features and make the face appear slimmer.
Look for frames with the temples coming from the top of the frame (not from the centre) for a more modern take.The frame should be wider than the broadest part of your face with soft angles in the brow line. Also try a brow bar, which naturally draws the eye upward.
Men with a round face shape should choose a narrow frame with sharp angles and high temples. This will make the face appear longer. Coloured temples and a clear bridge will visually reduce the distance between the eyes. Similarly, darker shades such as a rich dark turtle, ink or classic black will minimise full cheeks.
The best way to customise a frame at a relatively low cost is to change the lenses. The majority of opticians offer a choice of brightly coloured, graduated, mirrored and even gold-plated lenses.
Square Jaw and Slim Face
Those with a slim face and a square jaw can wear oversized round and square shapes. Light colours and rimless models provide a light and effortless appearance, reducing the appearance of width.
For ultimate comfort, try the latest combination models, which combine bold acetate rims with fine metal bridges.
As an introduction to colour, look for sunglasses with a graduated acetate for a softer appearance, or choose soft neutral and nude tones. One of best selling Cutler and Gross acetate shades is the wonderfully British sounding Humble Potato. It flatters all skin tones and is a chic alternative to dark turtle or black.